Am I going bald?

I have to admit that I’m starting to thin on top. Should I shave my head?

T. Scott – Ontario

Hi, T. Scott,

If you’ve ever been in Istanbul’s Ataturk airport, you know what I’m going to say. There are few things in life more shocking than getting ready for a transfer flight and seeing dozens and dozens of men who have gone through recent hair transplant surgery waiting for their flights back home. Istanbul must have a stranglehold on male-pattern hair loss (MPHL) solutions. These guys walk around proudly with blood-soaked bandages on their heads, giving each other knowing little nods. We’re going to look rock stars when we get back to Dubai.

It’s no great revelation that 7 out of 10 of us experience some degree of hair as we age. I am completely convinced, though, that the evolutionary-balance is that 7 out of 10 women don’t care whatsoever. Nonetheless, what we do when we start to go bald is an important question.

Okay, before addressing your question, I will first of all address an easier question. When we start to add some weight to our midsection (as probably 7 out of 10 of us do), do we continue to wear the same T-shirt that we did in our twenties? Yes, it’s ironically cool that we saw Van Halen’s pre-tour warm-up gig at Sam the Record Man for their 1998 III Tour (though Gary Cherone?) but with our added belly girth, that T-shirt would make us look like we worked at a computer repair store. Instead, frame the T-shirt, put it in the mancave, and buy something from Stitch Fix.

So it goes with our thinning hair. If we even momentarily think that growing it a bit longer will make us look less bald, then we are fractions of an inch away from a combover. Those friends of our dad’s? They had no idea that they had a combover. They honestly thought that no one noticed. Except when swimming. Which they tended not to do very often.

Did you know that there was something called the Norwood Scale? A doctor dude back in the 50’s came up with this to convince us that we needed to reverse what nature thought was a wise and noble progression. And with that came the whole hair replacement industry. Plugs and wigs, buttocks-to-head transplants, hair-in-a-can aerosol sprays. I’m hoping that our children’s children will laugh to know that men obsessed about hair loss. They will walk around like the Romans, envious of those lucky enough to be endowed with the senatorial look of MPHL.

Here’s where my basic grooming philosophy comes into play. You want to shave your head? Go for it. But don’t set yourself up for being ridiculous, which in this case would mean spending an extra 40 minutes in the shower each morning making sure that you are shiny bald. Why do guys do that? I think it’s still a form of bald-shaming. After a day or two, the male-pattern baldness returns. The shock! That guy’s not naturally shiny bald! He has the lines of a balding male! Is there something wrong with him?

We need to embrace our male-pattern baldness. And then find a suitable haircut. Go ahead, shave it down with a Number 2. See how it looks. Too short? Then let it grow, which it remarkably will do. Maybe underneath that hair is one perfectly shaped head. Then Zero it down! And after you’ve screwed around with your razor a few times… go see a barber! He’ll pick something out, based on your face shape, where you’re balding, and your style.

The other day I saw a handsome middle-aged guy and it took me a minute to figure out what was different. He was dressed smartly in these olive-colored chinos and a bomber jacket. He had a short-trimmed beard. And then. Bam. Wow. Brave! Instead of completely bald with the beard, which is everywhere, he had let his hair, I guess a VI on Norwood’s scale, grow a bit. Obviously professionally cut. I used to think that guys who went completely bald were the brave ones. But this guy, embracing his MPHL, he’s like our Superhero. Fearless.

So, my recommendation to you, T. Scott, is take a deep breath, acknowledge that you are no longer twenty, and be brave. Shave it or let it grow. But don’t bother hiding it. No one, especially 7 out of 10 women, is going to be fooled.

-R.L.
Chop That Wood

Do I need new glasses?

My eyes used to work so well – now my arms are barely long enough to hold things where I can read them. Reading glasses help but I look so grandfatherly… It really bugs me that I can no longer focus at things close. Clipping fingernails is particularly vexing – I never have my reading glasses with me when I do that. How can I continue to be cool while having to use reading glasses…

James – Ontario

Hi, James,

Our vision is a perfect metaphor for middle-aged guys. One day everything is fine and the next, bang!, the entire universe is crumbling before us. (And then once we’ve acknowledged the crumbling universe, we can decide whether to freak out or just carry on. I’m an advocate for just carrying on.)

I started, like you, by pretending that my eyes were still fine and trying to convince myself that I didn’t mind reading at arm’s length. Then I tried on some reading glasses in the drug store and had to admit that my arm was getting tired. I soon realized these glasses worked fine for reading, but I couldn’t switch between whatever was on my desk and my computer screen.

So I got into the grandfatherly habit of peering over the top of the frames. That’s what makes us look old. Not the glasses themselves. Glasses can be perfectly cool. As long as you get the right ones.

This year I took the big leap and moved from reading glasses to progressives. I hesitated for so long because I’ve got no problem with distance. And I didn’t want to admit that they were just getting worse each year. But now that I’ve grown used to my progressives, I can see everything, all the time! No need to go find my reading glasses since they’re right on my face. If I’m driving or out for a run I take them off, but I don’t need to.

It’s time for you to admit that you’re middle-aged, that like the rest of us your eyesight is changing. It’s now time to start wearing glasses that weren’t purchased for ten dollars at the drugstore. And glasses that don’t make you look like a grandfather.

I am a fan of Warby Parker — not just their style but their business model and their great customer service. (I’m not getting paid to say this.) If you’re going for progressive lenses, then you’ll need to make an appointment for an eye exam. But if you just want to get some awesome-looking reading glasses, then order directly online. They’ve got a great home try-on system. And I love that they give a pair away for each pair purchased.

-R.L.
Chop That Wood

Should I trim my nose hair?

What is the best trimmer for your beard and nose hair?

Dean – Ontario

There’s a bigger unstated question here, so I’ll start with that and then point you in the right direction for your grooming accoutrements.

Because you’ve asked this question, you’ve obviously already encountered a question that we all face in our early middle years. Why can’t I look like I did in my twenties? Wrinkles and belly fat aside, we have less hair while simultaneously having more hair. Did any of us see this coming?

Once we’ve accepted that we’re no longer the glorious haired (and hairless) specimen of our youth, we’ve got a second question. Is it worth taking the time to be well-groomed? We’re now established in our careers, our spouses accept us unconditionally (or so we convince ourselves), and just look around at other middle-aged guys — they don’t seem to be trying too hard.

Yes, I said that our wives’ love is unconditional, but when it comes to grooming, don’t be so sure. I guarantee you that there’s not a single woman who will say that nose hair, ear hair, Frankenstein eyebrows, random six-inch long chest hairs, or neck scruff are sexy. Not a single one.

Are you trying to impress your wife? Of course you are! There might not be any hard data, but I don’t think that it’s unreasonable to graph sexual activity to grooming habits. Maybe you want to try this out. Go ungroomed for three months, keeping track of the quantity and quality of your sexual engagements. And then try it well-groomed for three months. Or, don’t bother. Just go with the groomed.

Who else are we trying to impress? Be honest — pretty much everyone we come in contact with. And that’s a good thing. Your professional appearance, while maybe not as key as performance, certainly impacts your success and promotion potential. With two good candidates, do you think they’re going to go with the well-groomed, well-dressed guy or the one with eyebrow hair that could be braided? How about our daughter’s new boyfriend? We sure want to impress him. We want him to look at us and think that our well-groomed appearance directly relates to our ability to put him in a stranglehold if he breaks her heart. We still care about the things that matter.

Which means that we need to get cutting. Which further means that we need a good hair-removing tool chest: a razor, trimmer, scissors, comb, in addition to good blades and products.

I’ll start out by plugging Dollar Shave Club, which offers awesome inexpensive blades and a ton of products. Or stop in at a local boutique shave shop — they’re popping up everywhere. Put away the thick Gillette cream that our dads used and the overpriced razor blades.

Here are a couple good clippers that you could consider. I use a Norelco. But there are tons of other ones.

My wife still tell the story of when I tried to shave my nose hairs using a razor. I skinned the edges of my nostril. Not only did it hurt and bleed like crazy, it left a scab for weeks. Here’s the trimmer I started using after the scab healed.

Anyway, I don’t think that ultimately it matters what razors and trimmers and products you use. Just make sure that you’re doing some grooming. And when you buy your shaving and grooming gear, don’t be a cheapskate.

-R.L.
Chop That Wood

What should I wear to a funeral?

I’ve been told that wearing black to a funeral is too formal. Or just for older people. What should I wear?

Abe – Minneapolis

Hi, Abe,

Maybe you’re asking this question theoretically. If you’ve lost someone recently, my sincere condolences.

When it comes to funerals, I’m an advocate of a classic look. Black tailored suit, crisp white shirt, black tie, black Oxfords.

A year ago I bought what I call my “death suit,” which for me is a memento mori and an acceptance of what these next few decades will look like. In our middle ages, we have to admit that the generation ahead of us, including our parents, will be moving on.

Some people may tell you that a black suit is too depressing. We should be celebrating a life well-lived! Yes, but you’re better off celebrating it with something that doesn’t draw attention to you. Here’s the thing. If you wear a black suit to a funeral, no one will remember afterwards. If you decide that in honor of your fun-loving Aunt Jeannie you’re going to wear a Hawaiian shirt and shorts, they will remember.

If you don’t like the stark contrast of the white shirt and the black suit, or if you’re on the pale side, like me, try a few different shirt and tie colors. If you’re a really white guy, go with grey, silver or light blue. Always matte, never shiny! Traditionally we’re not supposed to wear black and navy blue together, but I think a navy blue tie and light blue shirt works with a black suit. For a bit of respectful celebration, try pink. Whatever you do, never wear a black shirt and black suit. Not only is it too Matrix-y, but you could look like a floating head in any photos. Or disappear entirely if you’ve got a dark complexion.

If it’s a winter funeral, dress for it. Wear a black trench coat with a scarf complimenting the color in your shirt and tie. You don’t want to be that guy hunched over, hands jammed in his front pockets shivering graveside.  What you wear is an extension of the respect, honor, and celebration you feel towards the one you love. Stand tall. Move slowly. Smile. Shake hands warmly, not like you’re interviewing for a job. And please don’t think there’s anything unmanly about crying at a funeral. Always keep a handkerchief in your pocket.

-R.L.
Chop That Wood

Should I grow a beard?

I’ve always been clean-shaven but think I might look good in a beard. What do you think?

Sean – Michigan

Hi, Sean. This is one of the easiest questions to answer.

Yes.

Whether you are a corporate executive or a personal trainer, growing a beard in your middle ages is essential. You are old enough to decide what you want to do with the hair follicles on your face.

Grow it because it’ll give you something to reflect on, and that’s the point of our middle ages. You can’t grow a beard without realizing – I look older. You may look better, too.

So, yes, grow your beard. And then ask yourself a further question: should I keep it? And to answer that question, you have to consider four things:

1. What does my spouse think? You will have to look at your beard a couple of times a day in the mirror. Your spouse not only has to look at it all the time, she may also want to physically interact with it. While some women can’t get enough of a man with a beard, others will respond the same as if you announced you’ve been diagnosed as having leprosy.  

2. Am I prepared to keep it well-groomed? Throwing on some shave cream and running a blade over your face each morning is the easiest thing to do. Unless you want to look like a crazed prophet, you’re going to need a good trimmer, scissors, some beard oil, and be prepared to trim it at least weekly. And don’t forget to head to a mirror each time after you eat to make sure you’re not sharing your love for barbecue sauce with the rest of the world.   

3. Can I keep my hands off it? Some men grow beards and can’t get out of the habit of pulling on it like a brooding professor. No one likes to watch that. And touching your face is a surefire way to spread germs.

4. Can you walk that razor line between over-groomed and under-groomed? Your style is up to you. But don’t be ridiculous. A pencil-thin moustache and chin line? An eight-inch long taper? Ridiculous in both cases. Grow a beard but keep it groomed. And make sure your beard matches your hairstyle. If you don’t know if it does, ask your barber. And spend the extra few dollars to have it shaped each time you visit him. Remember that you’re in your middle ages. Don’t be a cheapskate.

Finally, beards are safer than many fashion choices you may make in your middle ages. Unlike a tattoo, you can try it out for a couple of months and see.

-R.L.
Chop That Wood